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Coin Grading Terms Explained: How to Read a PCGS Slab Without Guessing

If you’ve ever stared at a PCGS coin slab and felt like it was written in code, you’re not alone. Between the abbreviations, numbers, labels, and that little barcode, there’s a lot packed into a small piece of plastic. But once you understand how it all fits together, you can tell a lot about a coin at a glance. You’ll know what the grader saw, what flaws were noted, and whether it’s worth a second look.

Let’s break it down piece by piece so you know exactly what you’re looking at next time you flip over a slab.

The Sheldon Scale: 1 Through 70

Most coins graded by PCGS use the Sheldon Scale. This numerical system runs from 1 to 70 and reflects the coin’s condition. It was developed in the 1940s for early copper cents and eventually became the standard across all U.S. coin types.

Here’s the scale in plain terms:

  • 1 to 59: Circulated coins
    • 1 to 10: Barely identifiable (Poor to About Good)
    • 12 to 20: Readable design with heavy wear (Good to Very Fine)
    • 25 to 45: Moderate wear with most details visible (Fine to Extremely Fine)
    • 50 to 58: Light wear, almost uncirculated (About Uncirculated)
  • 60 to 70: Uncirculated (Mint State)
    • MS60: Technically uncirculated, but dull or covered in marks
    • MS63: Decent eye appeal with minor flaws
    • MS65: Strong strike and above-average luster with a few small distractions
    • MS67 to MS70: High-end grades with exceptional surfaces and nearly no flaws

Each number is a snapshot of the grader’s opinion. Just a two-point bump (for example, from MS63 to MS65) can mean hundreds of dollars in value, depending on the coin.

Grade Prefixes: MS, AU, XF, and the Rest

The number on the slab doesn’t stand alone. It’s always paired with a two-letter prefix that tells you what general category the coin falls into. These are the grade types that sit in front of the Sheldon number, and they give you quick context before you even look at the coin.

  • MS – Mint State (60–70) The coin was never in circulation. No wear, though it can still have flaws like contact marks or weak strikes.
  • AU – About Uncirculated (50–58) Very light wear on the high points. It saw a little handling, but most of the mint luster is still there.
  • XF or EF – Extremely Fine (40–45) Light overall wear, but major design elements are still crisp.
  • VF – Very Fine (20–35) Moderate wear with clear main details. The coin has seen use, but you can still appreciate the design.
  • F – Fine (12–15) Heavy wear, but most major elements are visible.
  • VG – Very Good (8–10) Almost worn smooth, but enough remains to identify the type and date.
  • G – Good (4–6) The coin is readable but heavily worn. Design is mostly outlines.
  • AG – About Good (3) Barely identifiable. Rim merges into the design.
  • PO – Poor (1) You can tell what it is, and that’s about it.

You’ll see these prefixes on almost every slabbed coin. They tell you whether the coin has seen circulation, how much wear it has, and what kind of collector it might appeal to.

What Designations Like RD, FB, and PL Mean

Beyond the number and prefix, slabs often include designations that describe specific physical traits of the coin. These can affect value dramatically, especially when they highlight strong strikes or preserved surfaces. Here are the most common ones you’ll see on PCGS labels:

RD / RB / BN (Red, Red-Brown, Brown)

Used on copper coins like Indian Head and Lincoln cents.

  • RD (Red): Coin still shows at least 95% of its original red mint color. This is the most valuable designation for modern uncirculated copper.
  • RB (Red-Brown): Somewhere between red and brown.
  • BN (Brown): Most or all of the original color is gone. Often seen on older circulated cents.

PL (Prooflike)

This shows up on business-strike coins that have mirrorlike surfaces, usually from polished dies. Common with Morgan dollars. Not quite a proof, but flashy enough to note.

DMPL (Deep Mirror Prooflike)

A stronger version of PL, where the mirrors are deep and highly reflective, often with cameo contrast between the fields and devices.

FB / FT (Full Bands / Full Torch)

FB used for Mercury dimes. FB/FT used for Roosevelt dimes.

  • FB or FT means the horizontal lines on the torch (or bands on the fasces) are fully struck with no breaks. This is a sign of a strong, crisp strike.

FS (Full Steps)

Used for Jefferson nickels.

  • Refers to the number of visible steps on Monticello. A coin with 5 or 6 uninterrupted steps can earn the FS designation and a higher premium.

FBL (Full Bell Lines)

Used on Franklin halves.

  • Looks at the lower lines on the Liberty Bell. Clean, unbroken lines earn the FBL mark, which often bumps value significantly.

Cameo / Deep Cameo (CAM / DCAM)

Used for proof coins.

  • Cameo proofs show contrast between frosted devices and mirrored fields.
  • Deep Cameo proofs have strong, frosty devices with deep mirror fields. The stronger the contrast, the more desirable the proof.

These designations aren’t just cosmetic, they usually mean better eye appeal, stronger strikes, and higher prices. If you’re buying or selling a coin with a special look, know what these terms mean and what they add to the slab.

When a Coin Gets a “Details” Grade

Sometimes a coin gets slabbed without a numeric grade. That usually means it has a problem. PCGS calls this a “details” grade, and it’s basically their way of saying the coin is real, but something’s off.

The most common reason? Cleaning.

Collectors throw the word “cleaned” around like it’s a death sentence, and sometimes it is. A harsh cleaning can destroy the surface of a coin. Hairlines, polish marks, bright unnatural shine—none of that should be there. If a grader sees signs of it, you’re not getting a number. Just a slap on the wrist and a label that says “Cleaned.”

Other reasons for details grades include:

  • Damage (scratches, gouges, bends)
  • Environmental Damage (corrosion, discoloration, PVC residue)
  • Tooling or Alteration (tampered date or mintmark)
  • Recoloring or Re-engraving

Even coins with serious history (hoard coins, dug coins, shipwreck coins) can end up with details grades if the surface took a beating.

Collectors are split on details coins. Some avoid them completely. Others see them as a way to own a rare date without the full price tag. Either way, you need to know what that label means.

Related: How to Spot a Cleaned Coin and Why It Matters

Also see: Corrosion vs. Environmental Damage

What “Error Attribution” Actually Means

When you send a coin to PCGS for grading, you can pay extra to have it attributed as an error. That means they’ll label the specific minting mistake on the slab, whether it’s a clipped planchet, off-center strike, broadstrike, or something weirder.

This isn’t automatic. You can’t just send in a wonky-looking coin and expect an error label. You have to select “Mint Error” attribution when you submit, and not every mistake qualifies. PCGS has a list of acceptable errors, and if yours isn’t on it, you’ll get it back as a normal coin or with a generic “No Error” comment.

The label will include the type of error, usually in simple terms like:

  • Clipped Planchet
  • Off-Center
  • Broadstrike
  • Double Strike
  • Struck Through

If your coin is a major variety, like a 1955 DDO or a well-known RPM, that falls under “variety attribution” instead. It’s a separate service with different criteria. Don’t confuse the two.

Having an error labeled on the slab can increase value, especially if it’s dramatic or rare. But if the strike-through is barely visible, the cost of attribution might not be worth it. Know what you’re submitting.

What the Rest of the Label Tells You

A PCGS slab isn’t just about the grade. There’s a lot of other info packed into that little label, and understanding it can help you price, research, and verify coins with more confidence.

Coin Type and Year

This one’s straightforward. The label starts with the basic ID, something like 1909 VDB Lincoln Cent or 1884-O Morgan Dollar. It tells you what the coin is.

Grade and Designation

Right after the type, you’ll see the grade, for example MS65 or AU58BN. This is the combination of the Sheldon number and grade prefix explained earlier. If there’s a special designation like FB (Full Bands) or PL (Prooflike), it will show up here too.

Attribution (if applicable)

If you paid for an error or variety attribution, it will appear on the label. This could be something like 1955 Doubled Die Obverse or Struck Through. If no attribution was requested or applicable, this part will be blank.

Certification Number

This long number near the bottom of the label is unique to your coin. You can enter it on the PCGS website or app to see the official record, including photos, population data, and pricing.

Barcode

The barcode is there for quick scanning and inventory purposes. It matches the certification number and helps with tracking and logistics at shows or in dealer inventories.

Hologram and Slab Security

On the back of the slab, there’s a hologram and often a QR code. These are built-in security features. If you’re buying a high-value coin, scan the certification number and compare it to the PCGS app listing before handing over your money.

Final Thoughts

Coin grading can feel like a secret language. But once you understand what those numbers, letters, and terms really mean, the slabs start talking. You stop guessing, start spotting real value, and avoid overpaying for coins that aren’t what they seem.

Don’t just chase high numbers. Learn what goes into the grade, what the designations really say about the coin, and how to read between the lines. That’s how you become the person who buys smart, not just the one who buys shiny.

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