Geoff runs Genuine Cents, a straight talking coin education project built from hands-on experience and hundreds of hours examining coins. He is an ANA member and writes practical guides for new and returning collectors who want clarity instead of hype. If you want to reach him, message him on Instagram at @GenuineCents.
A stretched rim with letters slipping upward always gets attention, but it’s not a mint error. It’s one of the easiest forms of post mint damage to spot once you know what causes it and what it looks like under magnification.
Environmental damage happens when copper reacts with oxygen, moisture, and soil chemicals. This 1881 Indian Head Cent shows every stage of that breakdown, from green corrosion to missing metal. It is not a mint error, but it is a perfect example of how copper changes over time.
BIE pennies are one of the most common and recognizable die cracks on Lincoln cents. They form when the die fractures between the B and E in LIBERTY, creating a raised line of metal that looks like an extra letter. They are real mint-made varieties, not PMD, and they make great low-stakes finds for collectors who enjoy spotting die breaks in the wild.
PMD stands for Post Mint Damage, the catch-all category for everything that happens to a coin after it leaves the mint. These coins aren’t errors and they aren’t valuable, but they can still be some of the most interesting pieces you’ll find in your change. This guide walks you through the most common forms of PMD, how to tell them from real mint errors, and why they’re still worth a second look.
Zinc rot and verdigris might look similar, but they tell two very different stories. Verdigris can often be stabilized or left alone. Zinc rot means the coin’s dying from the inside out. Learning the difference keeps you from wasting time trying to save what’s already gone.
After you’ve searched your change, you need a system to move it out without making the hobby feel like work. This post covers how to roll or dump your coins efficiently, why you shouldn’t return them where you buy rolls, and what to do if your bank stops accepting pennies.
Staying organized is what separates casual roll hunters from consistent ones. Label everything, keep notes, and end every session with a clean space so you can pick up tomorrow right where you left off.
A shiny coin isn’t always a good coin. Real value comes from originality, not polish. Once a surface is stripped or buffed, the damage can’t be undone, no matter how good it looks in photos.
Some coins look soft or half-struck even when they’re not worn. Learning to spot those weak, “mushy” details can help you catch counterfeits before they fool you.
Roll hunting isn’t about luck. It’s about rhythm, focus, and knowing what to look for. With the right setup and a clean workflow, you can move through rolls fast, spot real value, and actually enjoy the hunt.